Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of cities cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city comes as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these tales and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
